Nov 23 Morepork Track to Whananaki

Ironically enough...A farmer living near the Morepork track has infact given us pork! 

I awoke this morning ahead of everyone else to find a whole bunch of ham and bread wrapped under a coat. What a fantastic farmer. That is a lot of ham, each one of us had 3 big peices. 

we were all quite slow packing up because one hand always seemed to have a ham sandwich in it. Everyone day set off at the same time. The Morepork track was a nice forest area with real walking trails. The first couple hours were on fairly flat terrain. The trail notes mentioned a very steep drop followed by a very steep climb. We all dropped down all the way to a creek and then climbed all the way back up. I thought that was too bad, I sure hope that is the part mentioned in the notes. Walking on top of a spur I could sometimes have views out of the forest..looking at just more forests. But anytime I come to an opening I always feel a tad bit better. 

An hour or so later I again started to drop down a very steep muddy path and I thought this is the bit the trail notes mentioned. Yup. On the way back up the trail was wide enough for 2 feet side by side with hard clay on the outsides, with fantastic views out. This was a spur, walking on the top of it. It was very steep and I started to slow down and wanting very much not to get passed by others I finished strong and got to the top. 

The spur then followed down a fence line and out into the open. On top of a farmers cleared plot offering a great view. 

Whananaki was now only 2 hours away. The climb again was very steep but instead of mud it was grass. But you can't go too quickly because there are deep hoof depressions that can easily break or injure you. 

At the bottom we followed the outside fence line to te end of the plot and didn't know where to go, the orange markets were gone. It wasn't too bad, we could see the road we have to get to. We had to get under an electric fence which meant we had to get on all fours and army crawl under, on rocks which hurt. 

Road walking and an estuary walk and finally made it to Whananaki, the place of the 'longest footbridge in the Southern Hemisphere'. 

Made our way to the holiday park, found a room, found a grocer and took a snooze. 

Tonight I bought many burgers and ate that. Protein is lacking while hiking, so I took my chance to load up. 

Nov 22 Russell Forest hut - Morepork track

You're not gong to believe this, I can hardly even writing this. I waited before packing up so I would have a dry tent. At about 7 I saw the sun trying to get through the clouds so I made a run for it. Every morning I always have a towel to wipe the condensation from the inside walls. That was done. As Soon as my tent pole was out it started pouring rain. Just a complete downfall. My perfectly dry tent is now all wet. Just laying on my groundsheet getting soaked I had to roll it up and put it in the bag.

5 minutes later, sun came out and no more rain. The early bird sure didn't get the worm today. Anyways.

It was a nice walk out of the forest on an ATV track. 4 km until we got to a road which I had to follow for 15km. Today is my first real test of road walking.

It's quite dull but the highway was very quite with about 10 cars passing over 3 hours. Road walking makes for good time as well. 

My knee...again was in pain and this road walking didn't help so when I saw there was a holiday park just off the highway I was really really pursuaded to go there. It was Whangaruru Beachfront motel and camp. I started walking down the steep hill for probably 100m then decided 'hell coming up this is really going to do damage to my knee, let's keep going'. So I did, I kept on track and met up with Richard at km mark 288. 

We both went the wrong way and I didn't figure this out until 3 km in. Luckily there was a turnoff spot where we were so we waited and tried to hitch back down. Two minutes later a father and so. Pulled over and have us a 3km lift back to the right road. (We kept going up Russell road and didn't turn off onto Webb road. Sharp left turn)

Walking another 13 km we came to the start of the Morepork Track. Pitched the tent and had a good rest. The rest of the crew arrived a couple hours later. 

A farmer came around quite late and said he would bring us apples and meat tomorrow for breakfast. Let's see what he brings us. 

Nov 19. We out. Takahue to Kaitiaia

After yesterday I think everyone has had enough rain forests for a while. Before starting this hike I wanted to enjoy it, and walking through a green tunnel for 8 hours was not very fun. The plan was to hitch to Kerikeri and continue on from there cutting out 75km from our journey. (I'll most likely go back when I reach Auckland). 

Road walking into this little village of Takahue was uneventful and boring, nothing like walking through a jungle, but it was a good change. 

We walked out to SH-1 in hopes to catch a ride. 2km in a farmer asked us to come in for tea or water. It was the first person to offer a drink so we took it. He had a fantastic property and a nice patio area in the back. After a quick chat, back onto the trail. 

Once we made it to SH-1 my proposition was to both try and hitch hike one direction. He would for Kerikeri and I would for Kaitiaia. Because Kerikeri is 80 or so km away and off the main highway I thought it would be nearly impossible to make it with only 5 hours of daylight left. After 30 minutes a man in an SUV stopped and offered us a lift to Kaitiaia. He parked in the lane and just waited for us to pile in, didn't pull over on the side or anything. And strangely enough the cars behind him didn't honk, they just waited patiently until they could pass. That would never happen I'm Alberta. Or anywhere else for that matter. 

Made it and booked bus tickets for 9am the next morning to LeriKeri. We stopped at the local backpackers holiday park and got a nice room with two beds. 

I was hungry. So hungry. There was a KFC 2'mimutes away. I went in and ordered the two of the biggest burgers they had, and a big glass of water. 

There were other people at the backpackers who were ready to start their TAT and some wanting t start Herekino forest...for fun! I talked with them all and shared my views of the trail and what to expect. Soon after I crashed on the bed and read about half of my book 'The Martian'. Great book. 

Tomorrow off to KeriKeri. 

Nov 20. Zero day in KeriKeri

According to Richard this isn't a Zero day. It's a half zero day because we are busing for 2 hours. Anyways made it to KeriKeri and just hung out. Stayed at the holiday park there and got a basic cabin with two singles. Went to Countdown, the same as Safeway or Sobeys and stocked up on food. I bought lots of fruit and fruit juices and also ate lots of protein rich foods. 

There was a half marathon tomorrow so the place was very busy which was good to see. I went downtown and bought some more Clarityn for allergies and 50spf sunscreen. Then on my way to subway I stopped at vodaphone and found a 29$ iPhone 4 case which was great. I had to fix my last one and the superglue welds were coming off and dirt was getting inside. This one seems ok. And it was only 20$. 

Back to the cabin and read more. Had a mango and canteloupe for dinner. 

Paihia tomorrow, maybe do a zero day and golf there at the amazing ocean front course. 

Nov 21 Kerikeri to Russell Forest hut

I didn't stop at Paihia instead walked 38km to a bloody hut in the middle of a rainforest. My leg started hurting very early in the day, my left leg bottom calve muscle. Then about 2km in my leg knee started having crazy pain just below the knee cap. I was worried that this could be it for a while and I would have to take some rest days while it gets better. But I know what my dad would say. "It's fine, it's not even broken yet, tis but a scratch". He wouldn't say that, but something close it. 

So I cranked some times and continued to walk past Kerikeri and into a pine forest track with a real path! An actual path!  

At some points I would heel over and wince in pain from my knee. I thought something just be wrong with it, it really hurt. The next 2 hours I was trying to figure out how to walk so it wouldn't hurt. First I tried baby steps, that was hopeless. Used my walking stick as a crutch, but I'd max out going 1kph. Next I tried to keep my left leg stiff and walk like a gimp. This helped a bit but I would eventually jab my leg against the ground and the pain was even worse. Eventually I tried big steps, to stretch my muscles and joints even more. This suprisingly helped wonders. The pain was gone. I caught up with Richard and was given 2 ibuprofen which was a great relief. 

Anyways...got to Piahia and really really wanted to stop. The pain was back, but not too bad. The next part of the track you have to catch a boat across the estuary. So I called them at 130 and the owner told me the last boat was leaving at 3. Problem. We were 12km from Opua where the boat launches. He instructed me that he could pick us up at the Beachfront holiday park about half way down. 

So instead of putting my feet up and resting dor the rest of the day I found myself walking very quickly down the road to catch this bus. 

The pain was gone, adrenaline kicked in and I was motoring. Made it there at 230 and the boat suprisingly has only been there for two minutes. Score

Went down to the main dock at Opua where there were 4'hikers waiting for a lift. The boat journey costs 100$ per group or 20$ pp so it was nice to have such a big group crossing. We crossed the Waiweira Estuary and landed on a grassy spot at the very start of it.

I wanted to camp right there but the general consensus was to push on 3-4 more hours to a hut in Russell Forest.

There was a 4km road walk until we entered the forest. The trail then turned to a creek. The actual trail was to follow this creek for 4.5km. I put on my other runners and we all pushed on to find this elusive hut. 

Getting lost only a few times, all our problems were solved when 4 gps units were needed to find the right way. 

Nearing dark at 715 I was the first to arrive to this 'hut'. Turns out it was just an open shelter, which was still nice when it started raining an hour later. We had a nice spot to make our dinners.

Today I hiked 38km! Long long day and knee is just uncomfortable now. Downhill is the worst. It seems running is the best solution.

Off to Whananaki tomorrow. 

Nov 18 Herekino Rainforest Ahipara-Takahue

I had previously heard that the next 3 'forests' were pretty damn tough after a day or more of rain. And when I say 'forest' like it says on the topo map, it's actually a 'rainforest'! Not just a typical forest with a nice path. Oh and here's the kicker, just two days before we started, the northern jungles got a 75mm dump of rain! Exciting!

The first two hours of the day were walking through Ahipara then along a road which wasn't very busy up a hill. Once we got to the top of the hill we saw the ominous 'Herekino Forest Track' sign. We took a good 30 minute break then took off into the jungle. The first few hours weren't all that bad, I was thinking that it would be like the West coast Trail back he but it wasn't. There were no knee deep pools of mud with no way of avoiding them. The terrain was very steep tho, and with the rainfall it was quite muddy and slippery. Luckily I had great goretex shoes with vibram bottoms. They were very grippy, and also with poles the hike was pretty straight forward. 

The DOC times are normally halved by me, I remember the first day. A section said it would take 6.5 hours and I did it in 2.5. This forest said 8.5 hours and I was definitely thinking after a couple of hours it may just take us that, or more. 

The ""path"" was sometimes 1 foot wide with foliage at your feet covering all the slippery roots and rocks, and at your head level there were ferns and trees slapping you in the face so you sometimes couldn't even see the foliage. It was rough, and dangerous, not seeing what you're stepping on. 

Near the top of the hill where there is a viewpoint to Kaitiaia, I passed a woman who was going very slowly. It turns out she is American and started the day at 7 while campin in the forearm she was taking her time. We all had lunch at the top of the hill in the only open spot in the whole bloody jungle. 

The hard part was done, now it's all downhill from here. And oh man was it downhill. Some patches were over 60% grade and with muddy conditions, just meant it to be a death trap. I took the lead after lunch and got to this one really steep section. For the first time today I was nervous that I might fall and get impaled by a banana palm or strangle by a vine. I got down by "Tarzaning it". Using trees and vines I got down ok. I was about to keep on down, probably 30minites until we're out, but Richard and Vicky were behind and quite slow descending. So I waited there for them and helped them down carrying their packs and telling them what to grab. We all made it out around 6pm. Vicky stayed up top and Richard and I continued down for another 5 km to a forestry track, found a level campsite and crashed. 

November 17 Hukatere lodge to Ahipara

This is it, today is the end of Ninety Mile beach. After today there will be no more sand, at least for a really long time. 

Woke up early in a very dry and warm bed in the lodge and made my way outside to check the weather. It was overcast and I could tell there has been rain recently. Obviously there will be rain again throughout the day. I made some tea in the common area and was ready to leave for 830. Today was the latest I've left camp. Normally I am out before everyone else. Hukatere lodge was quite busy last night. There was 10 people I think. 5 Americans, 3 Germans, 1 Brit and myself. 

Today sucked. I had a pain in my left foot since about 9am. Every step is painful, but at least it's only every second step. The outright worst part of walking on the beach is that there is no place to stop for a break. Ever. 

3 hours in I wanted to eat something. I thought of taking out a wrap and peanut butter but then I knew everything would get sandy. So no. Keep walking. 

Oh and today the weather was terrible. Minimal rain but a headwind the ENTIRE day. So walking was slower than yesterday and more painful, therefore just outright terrible. 

There were many times today I would just yell. I yelled at a couple of birds that flew past for no apparent reason. I was not happy. And I knew something was wrong with my foot. 

Anyways...4 hours later I walked into Ahipara then another 2km to the holiday park where Richard and I split a cabin. I binged on cookies and pies tonight. I ate probably only 1000cal daily and burned well over 4000 daily. Time to carb up. 

I wanted to take a rest day tomorrow and rest my foot but meh, let's keep going. Herekino forest tomorrow. 

31km today. Blood blister on my left foot. 

November 16 The Bluff to Hukatere Lodge

Last night was wet, really wet. It rained hard from 10pm to 6am. It was still raining when I took my tent down. Got it packed and I was on my way. The early signs showed today was going to be miserable, and it was. It rained all day, from minor to an all out deluge. 

Let's talk about the fantastic views you get on the ninety mile beach. On the right was water, on my left was sand dunes. Pretty dull and uneventful day. Although at one point in the day the tide came in so far it hit the sand wall and got me wet. Sadly my right foot couldn't get up out of the water so my foot was totally soaked in salt water. That happened twice actually. 

A big plus with the rain and wind was that the wind was directly behind me pushing me forward. Thus making great time. I ended my day at Hukatere Lodge. Myself and R split a single/single room. Which was 100% dry, just fantastic. The main deck was filled with all out gear to dry out. Good thing it was only us who stayed there. 

The lodge had a common great room which was pretty great. Big couches and a huge window pointing out to sea. I spent the rest of the day hydrating. I was really dehydrated from the previous days. I was time travelled to when I was 80 trying to pee. 3L of tea later I was back to normal and dreading the last day on the beach. To Ahipara tomorrow. 

30km today

November 15 Twilight camp - The Bluff 28km

Today I woke up bright and early and was on the trail for 7, plenty of time before the hot sun will take affect. The first 5 km was through forest on a quad track so easy and efficient walking. Then down 400m of stairs down to the infamous "90 Mile beach". It's actually 66 miles long but 90 miles sounded better I guess. 

4 hours later I was at the bluff. Nothing eventful happened today, just sand and more sand. 

The Bluff is a popular fishing spot so there were I think 7 cars here. The campsite was off the beach in a nice field with a water source flowing into an old rusted tub. 

Set up camp and made some dinner. I was there really early ahead of everyone so I just sat in the grass and read my book. 

Tonight was awful. It started pouring rain around 11pm and also super windy. My tarptent has a couple design flaws which are pretty evident in stormy weather. The water would run off the side of the tent like normal. But this tent has a mesh that connects to the bathtub flooring. The mesh part is connected to the tent area which is dripping but at a ninety degree angle. The wind would move the mesh so it was in line with the tent wall. So the rain would flow onto the mesh. Next gust would come up under the tent wall and push some water into the bathtub flooring. Anyways, bad night didn't get too wet. I had a rag in the tent for such occasion. 

28 km today took under 6 hours so pace is around 5km/hour. 

Tomorrow is a 30km walk to Hukatere Lodge. A nice warm bed is waiting

November 14 Cape reinga - Twilight Camp 12km

After being dropped off at 10 I made my way down to the lighthouse where the must needed picture is. Got a picture I front of the flagpole then I was off back up the pathway to the DOC sign to start the trail. 

My original plan was to hike 20km to Te Paki stream and camp somewhere in the sand dunes. The first km was great with amazing views. One hour later arriving at quite a predicament, it was high tide and the trail says to walk over the rocks. Well I had to bush whack, and this stuff was thick, everything was interconnected and tough. I'm 6'3 and it was 6ft high in some parts. It took one hour to hike 300m, but finally made it out. With about 10 scratches drawing blood. I had one cut on my right leg and I thought for a minute to put some ointment and a bandaid on it. but that idea was deleted immediately. 'Meh it will be ok, it's New Zealand, not the jungles of Borneo'. 

3 hours later I was at Twilight camp. It was a great campsite so I set up camp and started reading "The Martian" on my Kimdle. 

Tomorrow is 28km to The Bluff. Leaving early to miss the heat.